2010 Friday Harbor Irish Music C

2010 Friday Harbor Irish Music Camp

(click on photos to enlarge)

When I was nearing adulthood and considering what my future might be like, I had fuzzy notions of living at the ocean’s edge with an expansive view of the water and spending my days doing something I enjoyed and evenings socializing with a large group of uniquely talented friends. I didn’t have a clear picture of the details, but I was certain I knew what it was going to be like. First, the place would most definitely be a village and not a town or city, the latter two had too many people, too much traffic and too many businesses. Second, my days would be devoted to projects of my own choosing and each day spent such would be its own reward. Finally, the village would be filled with friendly people of a like mind, each with their own purpose but all with a similar view of why they were there and openly welcoming kindred spirits.

As the realities of my life unfolded and the years passed I didn’t end up living in the setting I’d once idealized, but the week I recently spent at the 2010 Friday Harbor Irish Music Camp permitted me to immerse myself for a time in the life I once imagined. I found myself living in a quaint seaside village, not isolated from the outside world but clearly apart from it, populated with nearly 100 Irish musicians sharing meals, music and fellowship. Days were devoted to learning new musical skills and techniques, meals were spiced with discussions of instruments and stories of times past, and the evenings were spent playing music, talking with friends and generally enjoying good times.

The music camp was held in Roche Harbor on San Juan Island this year, just an hour’s ferry ride from Anacortes on the West coast of Washington State. Located a short distance from the more populated town of Friday Harbor, the Roche Harbor facilities offer a seaside near-private setting with accommodations, café and restaurant, a few small stores including a well stocked grocery and considerable scenery. While there, one is well positioned to enjoy the view of nearby islands, the large boat marina, picturesque grounds and many historic remnants of Roche Harbor’s long-ago past life as the focal point for a limestone operation.

When the long anticipated day finally arrived, I packed up and headed North to pick up my friend Richard at the Everett train station and from there we proceeded to Anacortes via a stop at a freeway accessible Costco. Nothing like waiting to the last minute to pick up a few supplies essential to a week away from home, and very much my nature to take this approach to travel. We arrived at the Anacortes ferry terminal an hour before the ferry was due and had time to visit and take in the surroundings. We had the option to save on the ferry expense by parking near the landing for a small fee and then walking on the ferry rather than driving on, but I wanted the convenience of keeping the vehicle handy in case I elected to do a little island sight-seeing later in the week. The music camp had arranged transportation on the other end for the “walk on” folks and there was a taxi service too so those that chose to walk on didn’t have trouble getting to the camp.

Once settled onboard, instruments were brought out and soon a session was in full life. There was a core of perhaps five playing, but there were many satellite musicians located in some cases several seats away but still contributing to the music. It occurred to me that one might consider this to be something of a diverse or distributed session. Perhaps it’s a good approach to employ too, that way if an irate ferry commuter decides to attack they can’t harm too many instruments at once, nor too many musicians for that matter. I refrained from joining in, holding my concertinas in reserve in case we suddenly found ourselves in the middle of a crowd and needed a way to rapidly disperse them. As we listened to the music we encountered several friends from the previous year’s camp and looked forward to visiting with them over the course of the week.

When the ferry neared Friday Harbor the session dissolved, but those that had been involved expressed their intent to revive it once they were settled in on land. The drive to Roche Harbor was easy and clearly marked, though not without a few unusual sights on the way. I fear readers will disbelieve me (and it’s understandable since I didn’t stop to get a photo), but at one point in a very rural area of the island we saw a single-hump camel behind a fence just a few feet off the road. I found the sight somewhat surreal, I’m used to cows, horses, occasional sheep and a rare llama or two beside the roads of Washington state, but I’ve never seen such an unique desert dweller at a pasture fence. I wondered if this was some sort of a sign as to how the week ahead might unfold or possibly an apparition, the lingering after-effect of a recent evening spent with close friends and abundant drink - it was no pink elephant but to be safe I resolved to favor better quality beverages in the future.

As we approached Roche Harbor we had a chance to take in a nice overview of the facilities, harbor and other nearby islands. The area surrounding the facilities slopes up and away so one enters something of a basin as they drive onto the grounds. Much of the area affords a good view of the harbor and nearby Stewart Island. We parked near the hotel and admired the setting before proceeding to check in. There were a lot of people with similar interests, I believe the count was over 90 this year, but the hotel staff worked quickly and soon Richard and I were off to our individual “one-bedroom condos,” which were located a “five to ten minute walk” from the main complex. The historic Hotel de Haro is quite an intriguing structure and it offers several rooms, but the grounds are expansive and many other guest accommodations are available on site including a newer hotel structure, cottages, single and multi-bedroom condominiums and houses. If you are interested in full details, then I suggest you visit their website.

We were very pleasantly surprised when we entered our “condos,” they were comfortably furnished with king-sized beds, two full baths, two decks and a fully equipped kitchen with a dining area that afforded an excellent view of the harbor and hotel though the trees. We even had two flat screen TVs, what a change from the small one-room “huts” we’d stayed in at the prior camp location. We unloaded the vehicle and after getting established in our condos, Richard came over and we stood on the deck and talked for a time as we admired the view. Eventually we went back inside and decided it was time to try a taste of the best from the Emerald Island, purchased before the trip with the intent of supplementing the overall theme of the week.

In addition to the very diverse body of instructors coming from as far away as Ireland, many of the students travel a distance of several states or Canadian Provinces to attend so this is very much a gathering of people from far-away places. No matter where they were from, I think all appreciated the harbor and area views. Stepping back, it should be mentioned that the Friday Harbor camp offers one the opportunity to improve their skills on a variety of instruments and with three class sessions each day some students take instruction in two or three instruments. A lecture series is offered each year and it follows the daily classes, typically addressing topics such as the Gaelic language, the history of the music, methods of learning to play by ear and perspectives on life in Ireland.

As evening approached we proceeded to the pavilion to join the rest of the camp in a welcoming dinner and introduction to the teaching staff this year. With the fading light the main structures take on an almost festive appearance, they are well lit and have a certain cheery glow as a result. The grounds are nicely maintained and there is a very un-crowded feel to the layout, one has a great sense of openness and of course the fresh breeze off the ocean certainly contributes to the overall effect.

After dinner each staff member was introduced and played a sample of their music and all were much appreciated. The teaching staff at the Friday Harbor Camp is always excellent and while many were new this year, the staff was of the same high caliber and considerable ability as in years prior. I could not single out one for special mention for fear it might be inferred that I thought them better than another and that would be not be a accurate assessment. The 2010 Staff consisted of:

Andrea Cooper - Introduction to the Tinwhistle

Antóin MacGabhann -Fiddle

Florence Fahy - Concertina

Johnny Óg Connolly - Button Accordion

Randal Bays - Fiddle

Sean Moloney - Flute

Tony McManus - Fingerstyle Guitar and Irish Accompaniment

I hope the others will forgive me, but as a concertina player when my commentary becomes specific it will focus on only one member of the staff. This was our first introduction to concertina instructor Florence Fahy. She spent her early years in County Clare and she definitely brought the musical flavor of the area with her when she moved to the states. She played in a confident manner, demonstrating her command of the instrument and engaging the complete attention of the entire group. She finished too soon to suit many of us, but it was an introductory period after all, so we forgave the brevity of the moment and looked forward to the upcoming classes with her.

Following dinner and the introductions, people dispersed according to their interests. Some were anxious to join into music sessions either in public areas or in the more private setting of their accommodations, while others had traveled a considerable distance and were looking forward to a good night’s sleep. Richard and I went back to our condos and talked for some time before retiring. As I entered my unit I saw the folks upstairs and asked if they would object to the sound of concertina coming up from below, and they said they’d be fine with it so long as I didn’t object to fiddles from above, suggesting the fiddle was “God’s favorite instrument” and no doubt a much appreciated alternative to the harp. I think I came up with the short end of that arrangement, I played very quietly for a time and then put the concertinas away - but well into the early hours I heard a strong rhythmic “thump-thump-thump-thump” coming down from the ceiling. I have to say, the music may not have always been to my liking but those folks had the best sense of timing I think I’ve ever heard. I considered recording a few minutes of it to use as a form of metronome for future practice sessions, but then decided the fiddling was distracting and ruined the overall clarity of the beat.

The morning came too soon, but after connecting with Richard we joined with Molly and Pat to have breakfast at the restaurant. It’s located at the water’s edge, so an excellent view of the marina and harbor was at hand. We greeted several friends and then made our way back to the condos, stopping for a few photos on the way. The weather was for the most part cool throughout the week, ranging from full sun and blue skies to heavy rain and even short periods of snow. My digital-camera policy is to take photos when you can and if improved weather offers opportunities to repeat the photos with better lighting then take advantage of it. At least that way one ends up with photos rather than skipping questionable lighting and then discovering they’d missed the best opportunity of the visit. I took many more than are displayed on this webpage, but I hope I've included enough photos to convey a feeling for the location and a sense of our day to day existence while there.

I’d been told that I wouldn’t have Internet access in the condo, but was pleased to discover a Roche Harbor WiFi network with a strong signal so I had full access to email and other Internet services. The only negative I found associated with the condos, and it was a rather slight one at that, was that it was a some distance from the condo to the main area where the restaurant was located and classes were held. One could easily walk it in under ten minutes though, the only thing of concern would be to have a warm coat on windy cold days and some form of rain protection as needed. It was also possible to drive over and park near the restaurant, and that was a popular option (I usually had two or three condo friends riding along), especially during periods of rain.

In a few hours it was time for the first concertina class. We joined up with several friends from previous years in the “Yacht Club,” located on a pier a bit distant from the main facilities. Because of the location we had a close view of the marina but I couldn’t quite decide at first if this assignment was intended as sign of respect for the instrument or a slight, but concluded it was the former rather than the latter after noting it was the location closest to where many of us were staying. A crane was working in the immediate area and on occasion we noted unusual objects swing past our windows, though perhaps none more so than a construction site "single-seat self-contained personal convenience" being relocated one afternoon. The sight of it slowly rotating in the open air as it swung by our second story vantage point reminded me of Dr. Who's Tardis, although I was hesitant to speculate as to how the interior conditions might differ.

Regarding the concertina classes, we had two 90-minute class periods each afternoon with a 60-minute break between them. Florence Fahy kept a clear focus and shared her tunes and insights with the group, patiently guiding us through perhaps as many as fifteen tunes over the course of the week. She offered up reels, jigs and a slide, even a waltz. Everything was taught “by ear” but in almost every case sheet music was offered as well. She had an extremely effective approach and took the time to be certain everyone understood even the most difficult passages. The tunes were by no means simple ones singled out just for teaching purposes, she was heard playing many of them in the evening sessions and even at the final concert. She made herself available for private tutoring at a very reasonable rate and I spoke with someone that took advantage of that opportunity and they thought it quite worthwhile. She was well liked by the class and it's my understanding that she's been invited back to teach at the 2011 camp.

I can’t speak for the beginning level students, but it appeared to me that those that benefitted most from the classes on an immediate basis were the ones that had a basic understanding of the instrument and knew the general layout before coming to the classes. That said, even those without prior experience would gain advantage by attending so long as they made good recordings in each class and retained the sheet music offered. They could then work through the class recordings at their own pace after returning home and eventually bring themselves to the same level as the more experienced students.

We had about a dozen students in the concertina class this year, a very good group overall. I believe I knew all but three from other years or other venues. In past years the individual instructors have organized an informal group photo opportunity on the last day and I usually take one to post on this website, but it seemed that the camp organizers had a larger plan in mind this year, several photos of the class were taken mid-week, both in session and outdoors too so I assume that at some point a group class photo will be made available to attendees. The photo I've included here was taken during a class but many of the students are visible. We even had a button accordion person try to attend the class, so I figure word must have been getting around the site that the concertina class was the place to be.

After the last class of the day we had a break of about an hour before dinner, so plenty of time to relax. Sessions were held every evening, some public and some semi-private, though in most cases those holding sessions in their temporary residences welcomed anyone attending the music camp regardless of ability. Of the public settings, the one thing I noticed on the negative side was that there was often insufficient space to accommodate all the people that wanted to listen in addition to those that wanted to play. Still, good music draws people and it’s no surprise that a crowd would gather. Those that wouldn’t fit in a particular location found other settings in most cases so the night wasn’t wasted. There were at least three public settings available every evening, and some of those were “guided,” so a great opportunity for those not as familiar with the session process.

I found the method of distributing updated information in the camp to be a little uncertain at times. Announcements were sometimes made in the restaurant at meal times or written on a white board near the entry to the restaurant. Not everything was publicized on that manner however, there were bits of information I that only heard via other students, so I wasn’t in direct receipt of all “official” releases. I can’t say it’s a weakness of the camp administration though, I had heard that announcements were sometimes posted on a board in the “pavilion,” a rather large public space that I only visited one time during my stay.

Some people were inclined towards photography and took several photos over the course of the week, and I've captured the image of two here. I met or renewed friendships with a number of interesting and insightful people during the course of the week, but perhaps none more insightful than a certain talented string player. One late evening she gave me a piecing look, then said “You’re not very good with the concertina, are you?” I was surprised by her assessment since she’d never heard me play. Was there a camp newsletter that I didn't know about? I hesitated briefly while trying to decide whether she was psychic or merely psychotic, but concluded it didn't really matter and I was forced to confess that there are buttons I rarely use; at least two, maybe three that I could easily donate to a good cause without affecting my playing to any large degree. Maybe they could use them in Haiti?

This is a bit far afield of the intent of this webpage, but in relating the previous paragraph it brought to mind recent serious conversations I've had with two well regarded professional Anglo concertina players and so I've elected to devote a paragraph to the topic. With one I commented that I felt some days everything flowed with the instrument and it seemed it almost played itself. Other days it seemed nothing went easy and few things went entirely right despite my best efforts. Well, that's not quite true, I think I was feeling a little more folksy at the time and I believe I actually said "Some days - the really good ones - it seems I can't shake the wheels loose no matter what path I try. The music just flows and everything comes out right. Other days though it seems the sky is dark, the tires are flat and the spokes loose, I can't start properly without missing something and it goes down a rough rocky road after that." The reply was that he didn't know a professional musician that didn't feel the same way. Continuing, he said that the important thing is that even on the bad days you still have to give your best effort. Although the conversation with the second person came from a much different direction, it ended on the same topic and his concluding thought echoed the other's. I think about that on the bad days and the sky seems a little brighter and the rocks not so large.

Returning to topic, it was a good week at the music camp. The last night was capped off with a staff concert held at the public theater in Friday Harbor. Transportation was organized both directions and those that were interested had a chance to play at a public house in town after the concert. Regarding the concert, it was well structured and all of the teaching staff was showcased and each did a wonderful performance. The theater was quite full and the crowd was enthusiastic. The public was provided an opportunity to purchase CDs recorded by the instruction staff, as had the students a few nights earlier. Richard and I purchased a few gems and couldn't wait to listen to them.

Although some attendees elected to remain on the grounds another day after classes ended, many of us left the morning after the concert. We discovered that the main dining area was closed, so I made my first visit to the Lime Kiln Cafe along with a few classmates and was quite pleasantly surprised by the offerings. We enjoyed a very nice breakfast, then said goodbye and went to our condos to finish packing. When all was loaded into the vehicle we turned in our keys at the desk and headed across the island to the ferry terminal. No dromedaries were sighted on the trip, which was a real shame since I had my camera close at hand and was relishing the notion of placing a photo of it on this webpage. Maybe the initial sighting was the result of the consumption of inferior grade beverages after all and the week spent indulging in samples of Irelands finest was the remedy?

We were over an hour early for the next ferry so we parked and had time to talk with other departing camp attendees and enjoy the sun, the view and the fresh morning air. Richard compared notes with others returning to Montana while I offered a little last minute concertina advice to one of the new players. There are a number of coffee shops quite near the ferry waiting area and many of those waiting were enjoying fresh scones and pastries along with their coffee.

On board the ferry a last session was held at the forward end while some of us sat in the back and talked. I played a couple of my concertinas for a time and caught the attention of a few passengers. I assured the grandmother of a very inquisitive young boy that if his parents would only start him on the Anglo concertina in the near future they could be certain that he'd grow up to be a well mannered and obedient musical genius and both she and his parents would be the envy of their neighbors. She seemed inclined toward hopeful belief but then the young lad shifted his interest in another direction and wandered off. Later I saw him closely watching someone counting a pocket full of change, so I fear the lad may end up as an accountant or banker and either position in life would surely be at the expense of a potentially promising career with the Anglo. I suppose it could be worse though, at least he was keeping clear of the fiddles so it appeared that God wasn't planning to call him at a young age. It's just as well too, I saw him beating the back of a chair with his Grandfather's cane just before we docked and it was obvious that the boy didn't have the necessary sense of rhythm to be a proper fiddler.

As the ferry neared Anacortes we went up for a quick listen to the last few minutes of the session before getting into our vehicles and dispersing. As we drove Richard and I discussed the week and all the things we'd been a part of. While the prior location had been quite functional for the camp, we both agreed that the Roche Harbor site was a tremendous step up with regard to accommodations. We decided that we’d like to cap off the week with some seafood so I called my wife and she met us at a local Bellevue restaurant. After we finished I dropped Richard off at the train station for his trip back to Montana and returned home, marking the end of my alternate life experience of living at a sea-side village. I think it would have been a good life, but I'm not sure I could have stood the hours, we were typically up well past midnight and again with the dawn. Not that I mind getting up at the crack of dawn, I just object if dawn cracks much before 9 AM.

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